Not sure how I ended up specing double bottom plate. Your Foundation wall is only 4' wide, typically a 8' foundation wall is required, but I thought you said the Pour had to be Monolithic? do they mean a monolithic Slab on Grade (raft foundation) which doesn't usually require a Curb or do they still want a Curb? on the Slab as well.

Ok found it, you have Walls>Foundation Turned off in the Display options (along with the floor surface for the 3D view) I see a concrete footing and wall in perspective view , but display options says there is no Foundation to display and in framing overview it is totally gone, you can make the floor slab show by checking the Floor surfaces display layer. Some weirdness going on in your plan, but the 2圆 double bottom plate is there as you spec'd it in the Foundation defaults (sill) instead of a 2x4 to go with the 2x4 walls. Typically I make the garage slab 1' above grade at the door opening and then make my driveway slab even with the garage slab again at the door opening. I have to use a monolithic slab (is a monolithic pour the same as a monolithic slab?), so the stem wall is disabledįor the perimeter grade beam (No 2) do I just specify that as the slab's footing. Or does the slab sit partially/wholly above grade? Is the surface of the slab normally level with grade? If so, I guess the stem wall would be required to better stop water, etc.

Siding 6' above grade, brick to be 4' above grade.

Rebar: 2 continuous #4's top and bottom or 1 #5 in middle third of grade beam.

Monolithic pour with 10'x20' perimeter grade beam all four sides.

5' concrete slab on 4' gravel/stone base.

Refer back to Micks pictures to see what I'm talking about. So, I want to know how strong a cable to buy and if a single attachment point to the rafters is adequate.Also if you don't know it already you can do the stem wall around the perimeter of the garage also.

This site formula gave me thrust of 1250 I have a bad back and cable is so much lighter too. One would be easy, more requires a special designed fastener.Īnother reason for not using wood rafter ties is that I would need to cut each rafter into three pieces to get them thur the attic access hole. Now, Im not sure how many that i need to connect the cable to the rafters. Using enough fasteners to hold it secure. Can someone help?Īlso, many sites discuss the number of nails/screws/bolts that are needed to fasten wood rafter ties. I have spent many hours trying to figure this out. Its most likely because I am using the formulas incorrectly. I have found several formulas on the net on figuring side thrust, but each i use gives different results. I have two unresolved questions concerning using cable. I do not plan on trying to take out all the sag (3'), just a little to remove some existing pressure on the side walls. I have a string pulled straight across the ridge inside the attic. Cable is stronger and will allow me to remove some of the pressure on the side walls, using a turn buckle I can pull up the roof slightly. In my research, I have discovered the idea of using cable instead of wood for the rafter ties. So, I decided to add the rafter and collar ties too. Vertical rafter supports and then a new roof cover too. However, Im adding hurricane straps, supports for the gable ends, and extra fasteners to hold the roof planking to the rafters. The roof does not have much sag and the walls have no apparent bow. The ceiling joists run parallel to the roof ridge. Every time Im in the attic and look around, I wonder what holds up my roof. Im planning on installing rafter ties in my 1952 cinder block home.

Roof rafter ties